TORONTO – Who knew that deep in the heart of Naples one could find a restaurant that pays homage to a meal so Canadian as Cod?
Baccalaria Osteria & Vineria is a welcoming little restaurant decorated in blue and white ceramics. The back room near the kitchen is a shrine to Canadian fishery towns. A set up with a ceramic version of the lighthouse at Peggy’s cove does not go unnoticed. Just above an original painting of the first catch of Cod in Gaspe’ Bay (in the picture below) in the 1700’s. On the opposite wall, original paintings of early maps of the Maritime Provinces.
Owner Toti Lange is happy to explain his love for Cod and Canada. In the kitchen, he allows his chefs to demonstrate the preparation of two vegetable side dishes famous in Naples. “ i friarielli” (what we call rapini) leaves braised in water, olive oil and pepperoncini) and cooked escarole with anchovies, olives, raisins and pine nuts. All freshly farmed ingredients. My neapolitan godmother spoiled me with these two dishes.
The cod dishes are light and well cooked. The friarielli and escarole partner perfectly as side dishes for a light platter fried crispy cod. The cod melts in your mouth while the outer batter offers a light crunch. Nothing heavy or saturated ever touches the plate.
A first dish of pasta mini fried cod balls is served to those who can eat gluten. For those who are gluten intolerant, Toti accommodates with the best lentil soup ever made. Lentils stewed , lightly salted, topped with the same broccoli puree’ and cheese drizzle used to top the pasta dishes.
Toti and Cristian (in the picture above) smile when I mention that the chefs did justice to my godmothers’ vegetable dishes. His love for Napoli and how well neapolitans have upheld cooking traditions abroad brings a warmth to his heart.
Toti wants all Canadians to realize that he too is in solidarity with us and our current challenges with the 25% tariff increase [ looming] over our heads. He hopes he can offer some sunshine for us. Toti happily says “ in solidarity with Italian Canadians, and all Canadians, if any of you are in Naples visiting soon, bring me a copy of this issue of the Corriere Canadese and I will offer you 25% off your meal”. Christian, watching and listening is shocked. Asking Toti if he is sure he wants to do this , Toti confidently replies “I’ve never done such a thing, but I stand by Canadians and we all should”. Thank you!
If you do visit Napoli, please extend our best wishes to everyone at Osteria Baccalaria!
(Photos: Fruit and Veg from Europe and Corriere Canadese)
