Italy’s Iconic Mountaineer: Walter Bonatti
TORONTO – In an age where 91% of adolescents are perpetually tethered to their social media, the term “generation gap” has become virtually meaningless. There was a time however, in the pre-internet and pre-tv era, when teenagers not only ventured outside their front doors, but climbed mountains – literally. Enter the iconic Italian Mountaineer Walter Bonatti. In 1949 at the age of 19, he climbed one of the most challenging routes in the Alps, the Walker Spur Mountain.
Filmmaker Daniele Vicari is currently shooting a film on Bonatti’s infamous 1961 climb of Mont Blanc, titled Bianco – about Bonatti’s tragic expedition up the mountain, which ended the lives of four accompanying climbers. The screenplay, co-written by Vicari, Massimo Gaudioso, Francesca Manieri and Marco Ferrari is adapted from Marco Albino Ferrari’s novel “Freney 1961 – Tragedia sul Mont Blanc”.
The Central Pillar of Frêney is the final corner of Mont Blanc, which in 1961 was an unclimbed peak of the mountain. Bonatti was with his fellow explorer Roberto Gallieni, an Alpinist and Engineer who had made several previous ascents together in the Alps. Joining them was a strong mountaineer Andrea Oggioni, who at the time was 30 years of age.
Joined by a French foursome during their ascent, the group of seven climbed together for the rest of the tempestuous hike.
But just 100 metres from the summit, a violent blizzard trapped the team for more than a week, leaving them deathly exhausted. Despite his weakened state, Bonatti took charge and organized the retreat, setting up rappels and pushing the others beyond their limitations to safety.
Tragically four of the seven didn’t survive including Oggioni, who died after becoming entangled in icy ropes. Despite the losses, Bonatti (in the pic below) was instrumental in saving the lives of the others, and in organizing the descent.
The Italian Mountaineer has not only been pegged as one of the greatest mountaineers and explorers of the 20th century, but peerless in the field. His resume includes the successful climbs of the Grandes Jorasses, the Grand Capucin, the Dolomites, K2, the Petit Dru, Gasherbrum IV, Rondoy North and the Matterhorn.
But while today’s adolescents may not know much about Bonatti, or read any of his quotes on digital placards, Vicari’s film may well end up being clipped for social media.
Perhaps then some 19-year-old will cut through the vacuous life advice from online individuals who rarely leave their bedrooms, and discover Bonatti’s feats. Words [like Bonatti’s] carry more wight when you’ve made a career from risking your life.
Walter Bonatti: “A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul”
Image of Daniele Vicari and Alessandro Borghi on the set of Bianco courtesy of Alfredo Falvo
Massimo Volpe is a filmmaker and freelance writer from Toronto: he writes reviews of Italian films/content on Netflix
